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Quick Trip - Ireland
Heading off to another country for the first time can be a daunting task, but for some reason Ireland felt comfortable to me from the day I stepped off the plane. The country is a remarkable place, full of life and a strong cultural identity. You might think of Leprachans and shamrocks at first, but if you visit Ireland, you'll leave with a huge range of wonderful images and memories beyond the usuals.

I headed to Ireland for the first time in September 1999, on a brief two week side trip before heading to Scotland for a wedding. I arrived in Dublin, as most of you will, and quickly made my way to Dingle, a popular town on the west coast. Dublin was disappointing the first time around, but I've since grown to appreciate the lively city. I had a bad hostel experience at Avalon House and made a decision to get to the small west coast towns as soon as possible.

I sort of cut out the entire south of Ireland, but having only two weeks to explore will lead to some slicing and dicing of an itinerary. Dingle was a pleasant escape from the bustle of Dublin. Touristy in its own right, it was starting to calm down a bit as the fall approached. I stayed at a small, colourful hostel about 10 minutes walk from the centre of town. The Rainbow Hostel was funky, with the penis statue in the backyard to prove it, and I met loads of people... some of whom I'd bump into later in my journey.

It seemed as though I'd have a few days and nights in a great town, and would have a few hellish days in between filled with nothing more than long bus rides. Trains in Ireland don't cover many routes and are expensive, but buses can be slow and frustrating at times, though they are the best option if you're a poor backpacker who can't afford to rent a car.

So up the coast I continued, through Ennis and on to Doolin and then Galway. Galway was a welcome relief to the seemingly quick jumps from town to town. I loved the place so much, and especially the Salmon Weir Hostel, that I spent almost a week of my two week trip here.

Unfortunately my Irish experience doesn't go far beyond Galway and the few cities I've mentioned. The Aran Islands are great, and the Connemara region west of Galway is gorgeous. I also spend a bit of time in the North, and I can't wait to go back. It has the same charm as the South, without the hordes of tourists. I think many people are still a bit spooked by the troubles, but don't let that stop you from a visit.

Overall Ireland is one of the easiest countries to travel in. Fortunately its also one of the most beautiful and fun places on earth. Make it a stop on your trip to the UK, its worth the bit of extra effort to get there.

By: Kirsty Henderson
September 1999

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